Beside the beauty of its volcanic landscapes and coastlines, Ende—East Nusa Tenggara with the status of a city where Pancasila birth takes place—has another heirloom to keep, the beautiful Ende Tenun. This woven cloth were famous for its natural dye color and numerous motifs which each embedded customs and beliefs of its people.
Tenun Ende generally are in a darker shades compared to many woven cloth from another region, nevertheless they also come with more varied motifs—though only women that wear a more diverse motifs while men tends to use only the stripes one.
Ende’s men usually wear tenun in the color of black or indigo, with a horizontal stripes (Ragi Sura Mbao) or vertical stripes (Ragu Surang Ndari). As for the women, floral and animal are more likely to be used as their preferred motifs.
Some of the most famous Ende’s motifs are Semba motif, used as a shawl for men and can be found in Nua Nelu, the village of Manulondo. Ndona. Semba can be interpreted as “path companion” and wear by men in a ceremonial celebration. Another motifs that often wear by women is the motif of Lawo Jara Nggaja, which means a horse and an elephant. This blackish tenun is the ceremonial cloth for the wives of chief tribe (Mosa Laki). For some other formal occasions, the common motifs to adorn upon are tenunLawo Pundi, inspired by insects and crawling animals—wear by daughters of Mosa Laki to dance Mure. Also the motifs of Lawo Soke that imitates the shape of breadfruit leaf (wuru tere), and Lawo Soke Bele Kale (flies’ wing motif); both of these woven clothes are wear by a bride on their wedding day.
There still are numerous other of Ende tenun motifs; Lawo Mangga with a pattern of fishnet (mata ndala) and fishtail fin (bhuja), Lawo Keli Mara with a pattern of mountains, Lawo Mata Sinde, Lawo Gami Tera Esa, and many more. How about it? Aren’t you getting interested to know Ende tenun further?
This bag made from Ende women sarong in lawo Jara motifs (jara means horse). Saliwu eyes are in between horses motifs.